Pinnacle Gully

April 10, 2021 at 10:00 AM
Name: Jeremy Broughton
Location: Pinnacle Gully

Found very slushy and wet conditions on Pinnacle Sat Apr 10 even with a very early start. There was a small stream flowing down climbers right on the first pitch. 3 inches or more of slush and rotten ice had to be cleared before placing 21cm screws and covering them over with slush so they didnt immediately melt out. Conditions improved once in the shadow of the overhang. Ice and snow still go all the way to the top of the gully. There are some worrisome, very thin, undermined sections on the last two pitches with water rushing beneath. There is still 1 to 2 meters (hip deep or more) of snow in the start zone at the top, a mix of melt-freeze snow and decomposed crusts, with 10 cm of newer saturated snow on top. We exited to the left at the top of the buttress rather than continuing up the snow. Last night was the 4th night in a row above freezing at ravine elevations.